Pacific Pueblo
Nearby Todos Santos offers glimpse of an old Spanish mission town
As it stands today, the town of Cabo San Lucas was essentially built from the ground up in the late 20th century as a playground for foreign tourists, leaving little trace of the remote harbor village that existed here before the completion of the Transpeninsular Highway in 1973. For a more bucolic dose of small-town Mexican life, head for Todos Santos, an old Spanish mission settlement and agricultural community that offers a good mix of humble colonial architecture, appealing cafes and restaurants, and an interesting collection of galleries showcasing works by local and expatriate artists.
The drive north on Highway 19 takes only about an hour, unless you decide to turn off on one of numerous dirt tracks that lead to miles of undeveloped Pacific coastline. While swimming is generally hazardous, these long and lovely beaches are ideal for shell-collecting or contemplative seaside walks.
When you get to Todos Santos, park the car and explore the town on foot, browsing through the boutiques and galleries until it’s time for lunch. Culinary options range from simple taquerías and seafood stands to more upscale tourist hangouts like the Café Santa Fe, housed in an old adobe home off the main plaza.
For a longer day trip, continue north on Highway 19 to its junction with Highway 1, then loop back to Los Cabos by way of Buena Vista, a laid-back beach town on the Sea of Cortez.
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