Vieques, Puerto Rico
Best Former Bombing Range
During the 1940s, the United States Navy began using a major chunk of this small Caribbean island off the east coast of Puerto Rico for military maneuvers and bombing practice. Many Vieques residents were forced to abandon their homes, leaving behind a diminished local population and, more recently, a small-scale tourism industry focusing on a collection of gorgeous beaches that had not been placed off-limits by the Navy. In May 2003, after years of public protests against the military presence on the island, the Navy finally ceased all operations in the area and handed the last of its Vieques land holdings over to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which now maintains the extensive acreage as a wildlife refuge. Access to the former Navy land is limited, but publicity surrounding the base closure injected new life into the local tourism scene. A major resort hotel is now open and more are in the works, but despite the new developments, Vieques has not lost its relaxed and rural Caribbean charm.
Orientation
Vieques lies about 8 miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico, accessible by air from San Juan or by ferry from the port town of Fajardo, about an hour's drive east of San Juan. Several airlines serve the San Juan-Vieques route using small passenger planes that depart from Fernando Luis Ribas Dominicci Airport (commonly known as Isla Grande Airport), which is a short taxi ride from Puerto Rico's main international airport. There's also a new high-speed ferry (www.islandhighspeedferry.com) that travels from San Juan to Vieques (with a stop on the nearby island of Culebra) in about three hours. Upon arrival it's best to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle to access the more remote beaches, though an ordinary car is OK for visiting much of the island, and communal taxis known as públicos offer an economical way to get around and meet the locals. While on Vieques, don't miss a nighttime visit to Puerto Mosquito (a.k.a. Bioluminescent Bay), a shallow inlet where you can swim or ride a small boat through waters teeming with millions of glow-in-the-dark microorganisms.
Information
www.gotopuertorico.com and www.vieques-island.com
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