During the 1940s, the United States Navy began using a major chunk of this small Caribbean island off the east coast of Puerto Rico for military maneuvers and bombing practice. Many Vieques residents were forced to abandon their homes, leaving behind a diminished local population and, more recently, a small-scale tourism industry focusing on a collection of gorgeous beaches that had not been commandeered by the Navy.

In 2003, after years of public protests, the Navy finally ceased all operations in the area and handed the last of its Vieques holdings over to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which now maintains the land as a wildlife refuge. Access to the former Navy land is limited, but publicity surrounding the base closure breathed new life into the local tourism scene. A major resort hotel is now open and more are in the works. But despite the new development, Vieques has not lost its relaxed and rural Caribbean charm.

Orientation

Vieques lies eight miles off the eastern edge of Puerto Rico and is accessible by air from San Juan or by ferry from the port town of Fajardo. Small passenger planes depart from Fernando Luis Ribas Dominicci Airport (commonly known as Isla Grande Airport), which is a short taxi ride from Puerto Rico's main international airport. There is also a new high-speed ferry that travels between San Juan and Vieques (with a stop on the island of Culebra) in about three hours. Upon arrival it may be necessary to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle to access some of the more remote beaches, though an ordinary car is fine for exploring the bulk of the island. Communal taxis called públicos offer an economical way to move about while getting acquainted with locals.

While on the island don't pass up an evening visit to Puerto Mosquito, one of the world’s last remaining bioluminescent bays. This shallow inlet glows in the dark thanks to billions of microscopic plankton, making a dip in the water other-worldly.

For accommodations and dining suggestions, check out the next page.

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