RELATED LINKS Return to 5 Beautiful Drives

Start on the northwest coast of Big Island in Kailua-Kona, the most touristy part of Big Island, Hawaii. The entertainment core of Kailua-Kona town is Ali'i Drive, two miles of souvenir stands, surf shops and beach bars boasting tropical drinks and sunset views. From here, head south on Highway 11 (also called Mamalahoa Highway or the Hawaii Belt Road) toward Kealakekua Bay Historical Park, where the water's abundant marine life and clarity make it one of the Big Island's top snorkeling spots. A few miles south, the road begins its winding, 1,400-foot ascent along the slopes of Hualalai volcano: This is the Kona Coffee Belt, a 20-mile stretch of espresso-scented, upcountry highway dotted with family farms, blink-and-miss villages and roadside produce stands.

Take a break in Holualoa, where brightly painted, tin-roofed buildings house art galleries, gift shops and cafes — and take advantage of the town's vintage 1930s gas station, one of the fuel up points in the immediate area. Nearby, the Kona Coffee Living History Farm (www.konahistorical.org) commemorates Hawaii's Japanese coffee pioneer heritage with 1930s-costumed greeters, tours through its working plantation and mill, and free cups of fresh-brewed coffee.

Continuing south, make a quick stop at the South Kona Fruit Stand on Highway 11 to stock up on organic papayas, pineapple, starfruit and caramel-macadamia popcorn. Continue to hug the coast all the way around the island. The treats will come in handy when you arrive at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach, northeast of the island's southern tip. With its jet-black sand and shady coconut palms, the beach is an ideal picnic destination. Don't feed the local residents, however — endangered giant green sea turtles shouldn't eat people food.

As the highway — now heading north — begins its 4,000-foot climb toward Volcanoes National Park, you'll notice a distinct change in the climate. It's much cloudier on this side of the island, and rain is likely: Welcome to the Big Island's wine country. Napa Valley it's not, but the Volcano Winery (www.volcanowinery.com) — where hot sellers include guava and macadamia nut-infused varietals — is worth a visit. Back on the road, watch out for the Hawaii's national geese, called nene, attempting to cross against traffic.

Upon entering Volcanoes, stop at Kilauea Visitors Center to watch a short video and pick up a guide to the park's Crater Rim Drive, an 11-mile loop around a massive Kilauea Caldera. Lined with well-marked vistas, highlights include the Halemaumau Overlook and Thurston Lava Tube, where plumes of sulphur-scented steam settle thick over a rocky, shrub-covered plain. The downward-winding Chain of Craters road provides access to a 3-mile flat of hardened lava; when the volcano is erupting, you can actually watch its fiery molten flow crash into the turbulent Pacific. It's a spectacular sight, but take heed: Local tradition — and a memorable Brady Bunch episode — warns that anyone who removes volcanic rocks from Hawaii will be cursed until said rocks are returned.