By Maureen Petrosky

Although Chardonnay still reigns as the queen of white wines, there is an adventurous wine subculture called the ABCers (the ABC stands for Anything But Chardonnay). This wine-loving crew desperately seeks white wines that show some spunk. If you, too, secretly crave something sassy to sip, check out these playful picks sure to satisfy the ABCer in you or your friends.

1. Ceretto Langhe, Arneis, Blange, 2006, $13
The Arneis grape is just bursting from Piedmont. This bottle is far from one-dimensional. If you’re looking for a distinctive white wine that has layers of aromas and a complex personality on the palate, this white’s for you. It is dry with fresh, fruity aromas of pear and apple, and just enough acidity to keep your mouth watering for more. By far, this is my top pick for the ABC bunch.

2. Alsace Willm Gerwurztraminer, 2006, $12
Since this producer, Willm, continually pours rock-star bubblies there was no surprise they got game with Gerwurtz. At first glance, the slightly exotic, long green bottleneck is striking and the label follows suit, sporting the name of grape and not the region, unlike other French wines. This Gerwurtz is all about decadence! It’s full-bodied with thick legs, glorious in rich golden hues, intense with floral aromas and unforgettable flavors that range from spicy to slightly sweet.

3. Bastianich, Tocai Friulano, 2006, $15
Yes, this is the same family that gave us the famed Lidia. The restaurateur and cookbook author along with son Joe and chef Mario Batali teamed up to import some yummy pours from Italy, and this one stands out as a fun pick. This Tocai Friulano is light, acidic and should be enjoyed when young. It resembles Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of citrus and grass, and this guy’s a little vegetal at first. Unlike SB it’s a bit smoky and has a richer mouthfeel. Drink it cold as the aroma tends to get a bit rubber band-y once it warms up.

4. Terras Gauda O Rosal, Albariño, 2005, $20
When you’re in the market for Albariño you must check out Spain’s Riaxas Baixas region. Give this one a twirl for intoxicating aromas of orange blossom as well as peaches and cream. The acidity, while you might not see it coming from this dainty yellow dress, can slap you around a little bit. That sass strikes a melodious chord when paired with paella, pork empanadas or seared tuna topped with piquillo peppers and drizzled with balsamic vinegar.

5. Velt. 1, Grüner Veltliner, 2007, $10
It may feel like you’ve got a mouthful of marbles when you let this gru-vee’ s name roll off your tongue, but the wine is worth a sip. The Grüner Veltliner grape is an Austrian darling with a bite that works to beat the heat. Light and lively with minerality and fresh fruit, this wine is perfect for a picnic or a poolside sip.

6. Incognito White, Viognier, 2006, $19
This wine from the Michael David Winery in California’s Lodi Valley would invoke the approval of Marie Antoinette at a masked ball at Versailles. It’s completely indulgent with the playful label and divinely decadent juice to boot. This "fine liquid gold" is none other than the alluring Viognier grape. It’s rich with aromas of honeysuckle and voluptuous with tropical flavors like pineapple. Sip this one all by itself.

7. Chateau De Campuget Rhone, Viognier, 2006, $19
This is made from the same grape as above but completely different style. It’s fun to taste these two side by side to explore the buzz between Old World and New World styles of wine. This version of Viognier is much more subdued in delivery than the Incognito. It has similar aromas of honey and apple, and the mouthfeel is rich and alluring. The French have really mastered the art of flaunting all that’s fabulous about this grape. Finding one under $20 is a daunting task, but this bottle delivers with a perfect pour.

8. Principessa, Gavia Gavi, 2006, $11
This is one of the first wines to capture my heart. Years of waiting tables uncovered wine treasures along the way, and this little Italian princess has stood the test of time. Always a hit with customers, this wine was my post-shift pick-me-up. This is a very light-bodied and crisp white, laced with delicately balanced fruit and a lovely finish. It’s ideal with sushi or a light salad.

9. Aveleda, Vinho Verde, 2006, $8
Love this little Portuguese white. It’s got a bit of spritz to go with its fresh melon and peach flavors. Vinho Verdes are usually lower in alcohol, making for a nice midday drink. Pair it with the traditional steamed clams or grilled sardines.

10. Boutari Moschofilero, 2007, $15
Greek wines have long gotten a bad rap. This flirty little white proves that Greece is back in the wine game. The color, aroma and flavor express a hint of fresh peaches, making this a perfect summer wine. Each sip is full of juicy melon with just the perfect touch of acidity. Go for this white if you aren’t a fan of the kick-you-in-the-teeth acidity from Sauvignon Blanc, but you need a little more zing than Chardonnay has to offer.

*Prices listed are based on the standard 750 ml bottle, unless otherwise noted, and they may vary depending on location and proprietor.

Maureen C. Petrosky is author of The Wine Club: A Month-By-Month Guide to Learning About Wine With Friends.

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