Looking at a raw diamond straight out of the mine, most people would have difficulty picturing the finished jewel, set in a gorgeous necklace or breathtaking engagement ring. To achieve their true beauty and brilliance, diamonds must first be cut, a delicate process completed by master artists who can turn rough stones into fabulous gems that take a wide variety of shapes.
Philip Press began his jewelry career at the age of 15 as an apprentice to a master European craftsman and platinumsmith. Now 37, Press is Chief Designer of Los Angeles' Renaissance Platinum, a preferred retailer of discerning jewelry aficionados and celebrities. Here he explains how to judge the cut of a diamond:
- A well-trained eye:
People in the diamond trade have seen so many cut diamonds that they can easily tell the difference between properly cut stones and improperly cut ones. There is a mathematical range of acceptability, outside of which a finished diamond is less desirable.
- The table:
The cut surfaces of a diamond are called facets. The largest facet of a diamond is the topmost, called the table. In a properly cut diamond, the table's diameter should be equal to between fifty-five and sixty percent of the diamond's total diameter.
- The depth:
A second aspect to consider is the depth of the diamond. This is generally between fifty-eight and sixty-two percent of the cut stone's width.
- The round brilliant cut:
Beyond the mathematical ratios, there is also the shape of the finished diamond to consider. Today, the most popular cut for a diamond is the round-brilliant cut, where the diamond's table is almost completely round.
- Other popular shapes:
But choosing the shape of a finished diamond is a subjective matter, and there are other popular shapes available. A princess cut is square, and a cushion cut is square with rounded corners. More shapes include pear (teardrop), marquise (football or eye shaped) and oval. One shape is not necessarily better than another; it's up to the taste of the buyer.
For more information about diamonds, check out the following organizations or websites:
Renaissance Platinum
www.platinumrings.com
American Museum of Natural History: The Nature of Diamonds
www.amnh.org/exhibitions/diamonds/
Diamonds.net
www.diamonds.net/
Diamond Review.com
www.diamondreview.com/
Diamond Cutters International: Diamond Education
www.diamondcuttersintl.com
Diamond Engagement Rings Guide
www.thediamondbuyingguide.com
Next: Diamonds: The Four Cs
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