Maki, also known as sushi rolls, is a good choice for beginners.

It is often difficult to find diners who are ambivalent about sushi. It seems that when it comes to this Japanese specialty, it's a classic case of love-it or hate-it. For many, there is nothing quite as delicious as a well-made California roll or piece of raw tuna, while for others, the whole concept of sushi is better left to those with truly adventurous palates. It doesn't have to be this way. With a little knowledge of what to order, sushi skeptics can sample the delights of this popular style of cuisine and even learn to love it.

Philip Yi is an experienced sushi chef, instructor and the director of the California Sushi Academy. Here he offers some good menu choices for those who have never tried sushi before:

• More than raw fish. Yi stresses that, contrary to popular belief, sushi is more than just raw fish. Sushi is about the fusion of tastes like rice, seaweed, fish and vegetables, and about the art of meticulous food preparation and presentation. The world of sushi is a big one, and almost anyone can find dishes that they love.

• Maki. Maki, also known as rolls, are an excellent choice for the beginner sushi eater. Small cylinders of rice and seaweed, rolls are stuffed with anything from vegetables to fish, and are a tasty, bite-sized treat.

• Ebi and crab. As a next step into the sushi experience, Yi suggests Ebi, also known as shrimp, or an order of crab sushi.

• Vegetarian options. Most sushi bars and restaurants offer plenty of all-vegetable options, partly because of the new trend towards vegetarian diets, and partly because vegetables have always been a big part of sushi. If you don't like fish or seafood, try ordering Vegetable nigiri (sushi placed over a small finger of rice) or vegetable rolls.

• Intermediate sushi. For those looking to go a little farther into what Yi describes as "intermediate" sushi, there are dishes like sea urchin, Aji (horse mackerel), abalone and different types of clams.

California Sushi Academy
www.sushi-academy.com

Sushi links
www.sushilinks.com

Eatsushi.com

The Sushi World Guide
www.sushi.to

Tokyo Food Page: Sushi Vocabulary
www.bento.com/sushivoc.html