Although there are several types of turquoise, collectors prizeÊ turquoise jewelry that is high-grade natural _ the highest grade of stone. RELATED LINKS The Genuine Article TV Series

By Bill Spring

Native American tribes of the Southwest often called turquoise the "sky stone" because its brilliant blue hues matched the color of the sky. In the world of precious gems, nothing else inspires the feeling of American turquoise.

"Turquoise is a real spiritual stone," explains Na Na Ping, a Native American master jeweler and lapidary (stone-cutter) in his mid-forties. "The beauty of it captivates you. It speaks to your soul, your spirit."

Although ancient mines in Persia produced the oldest known turquoise, serious collectors search for U.S. turquoise because it's rare, desirable and makes a great investment.

But the desire for western turquoise goes far deeper than market value. "American turquoise has a history to it," says Ping. "It has a connection to the American Indian."

Native Americans have been mining turquoise for about 2,000 years.

"American turquoise is very, very rare," explains Deanna Olsen, 61, turquoise dealer since 1976 and owner of both Silver Sun Gallery in Santa Fe, N.M., and an Albuquerque-based wholesale business.

Most serious collectors, investors and museum curators who travel to Santa Fe for turquoise jewelry are looking for high-grade natural, the highest grade of stone, which is only 5 percent of the U.S. market.

The other types of turquoise are: stabilized turquoise, a soft or chalk turquoise that is infused with a clear epoxy resin before it is cut; treated turquoise that is stabilized with colored resin; reconstituted turquoise that is ground into powder and saturated with resin; and imitation turquoise which different stones or plastic dyed to look like turquoise.

So what differentiates high-grade turquoise from these other types?

"Almost all turquoise is treated, colored or altered in some way," explains Cheryl Ingram, 56, who also works at Silver Sun Gallery.

"Most of the mines that produce (high-grade natural) were closed in the '60s," Olsen adds.

Eighty percent of turquoise sold in the U.S. is from China, while 15 percent comes from a U.S. mine called the Sleeping Beauty Mine in Globe, Ariz., which produces 1,000 pounds per month.

"In 20 or 30 years, there may not be any high-grade turquoise on the open market," Ping adds.

High-grade turquoise is formed in a matrix of host rock that adds its own color and texture. Unlike in the diamond business, where the most desirable attributes are "flawless" and "colorless," turquoise lovers seek out unique colors and a dark visible matrix of host rock — often called spider webbing.

"It comes right out of the ground," explains Olsen. "It's only polished. It's hard and dense enough that it needs nothing added."
Some of the more famous natural turquoise mined during the 1960s include brand names like Number Eight, from Nevada, a sky blue stone with golden webbing, and the Bisbee, from Bisbee, Ariz., a deep blue rock with a smoky red matrix — from copper.

But, the rarest high-grade turquoise stone is Lander Blue. Mined in Lander County, Nev., during the 1960s, it has a striking, deep blue color within a highly desired tight black matrix.

With every existing stone already on the market, Lander Blue retails at $500 a carat, and collectors and jewelers feel lucky when they get their hands on a piece.

"I would rather have a pound of Lander Blue," insists Olsen, "than any diamond."

The Bisbee and Number 8 stones sell for $25-$100 a carat. Because of the extensive supply, the existing Sleeping Beauty stone sells for $2-$6 a carat and the Chinese turquoise for no more than $3 a carat.

Three things separate the legendary high-grade stones from other turquoise: character (distinctive color and cut), density, (hardness and depth of color) and rarity.

When many people think about turquoise, they think about a blue stone; however, not all high-grade turquoise is blue. A lot of it is blue-green, yellow-green and brown-green. These contrasting colors are a result of the way that turquoise forms in the earth.

And, as any jeweler will tell you, how a stone is cut is just as important as its grade and character.

"The main challenge is knowing how to find the color in it," explains Ping.

Some lapidaries will grind a stone as flat and smooth as possible, often losing the brilliance of the hue in the process. Ping prefers to leave some texture in the stone, and he polishes to the precise depth where the color is strongest. He calls it "chasing the color," and while he knows he's a true expert at it, he gives most of the credit for a stone's beauty to nature.

"Turquoise is a gift of our mother," he says. "The beauty is already there. I just have the skill of bringing it to the surface."

Ping relishes the chance to cut pieces of the truly rare turquoise varieties like Lander Blue when he can find them. Over the years, he's learned what he calls "reading the stone" — an indefinable ability to sense when he's come across something exceptional.

"Recently I purchased some Blue Gem turquoise," he says, "and it just thrills me each time I cut it. Every one I cut is more beautiful than the next."

As with all collectibles, the turquoise market is cyclical, and values can rise and fall. But regardless of dollar value, true turquoise lovers will always be drawn to the beauty and spiritual nature of this uniquely American gemstone.

"I have never, ever gotten tired of turquoise," says Olsen. "There's something so earthy about it."

On the Web: www.silversun-sf.com.

Next: Basic Jewelry Care