Bespoke Tailoring: Gieves & Hawkes; Turnbull & Asser (103)Gordon Elliott learns how the "dress for success" mantra has guided Savile Row for centuries–and about having a fashion original, made exclusively for you. Gieves & Hawkes guarantee the "appearance factor" when you put yourself in the hands of their master tailors and cutters. They explain that once you have commissioned and worn a bespoke suit, nothing else quite measures up.
Afterward, we learn what it means to dress in the true fashion of Turnbull & Asser–one of the world's shrines to male elegance since 1885. They take more than 20 different measurements to account for the smallest details–such as how your wristwatch will fit–to ensure comfort in your daily work or leisure habits.
Gieves & Hawkes Facts:
- Gieves & Hawkes has provided 200 years of unbroken service to successive monarchs, beginning with Queen Victoria.
- Service matters: The company will send representatives to your office, home, hotel or wherever you are to measure you. They'll keep all your details on file so you can order whatever you need, whenever you need it.
- Gieves and Hawkes oufitted Admiral Lord Nelson, The Duke of Wellington, and Captain Bligh (of the Bounty). They also equipped Dr. David Livingstone for his expeditions in central Africa.
- The company developed and patented the Kitchener and Wolseley solar helmet (safari pith helmet) for expeditions in hot climates.
- In 1878, W.S. Gilbert sought the advice of Gieves & Hawkes on costuming for his first joint production of HMS Pinafore with Sir Arthur Sullivan.
Contact Information:
Gieves & Hawkes - London
One Savile Row
London
W1X2JR
011-44-207-434-2001
www.gievesandhawkes.com
Resources:
Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion
by Bernhard Roetzel, Guenter Beer
A Well-Dressed Gentleman's Pocket Guide
by Oscar Lenius
Turnbull & Asser Facts:
- In addition to the details of the cut, a bespoke Turnbull & Asser shirt will feature the classic deep spread collar, the three-button barrel cuff, mother-of-pearl buttons, and high-quality fabric in distinctive colors and patterns.
- Bespoke shirts and made-to-measure clothing were made famous by the Princes of Wales, Sir Winston Churchill, Picasso, Sammy Davis, Jr., Frank Sinatra and James Bond.
- The James Bond cuff was created by Turnbull & Asser in 1962. The term refers to a turn back cuff–a double cuff that angles back and reveals two buttons underneath.
- In 1915 Turnbull & Asser created for the British military a raincoat that could double as a sleeping bag. It was known as the Oilsilk Combination Coverall & Ground Sheet.
Contact Information:
Turnbull & Asser–London
71 & 72 Jermyn Street
St. James, London
SW1Y 6PF
011-44-207-808-3000
Turnbull & Asser–New York
42 East. 57th Street
New York, NY 10022
212-877-6285
www.turnbullandasser.com
Resources:
The Indispensable Guide to Classic Men's Clothing
by Josh Karlen, Christopher C. Sulavik, Josh Taylor, Amy Libra (Illustrator)
The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace
Website: www.hrp.org.uk
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