Travel south from Florence on the A1 autostrada (freeway). Exit at Certosa and follow the directions for Impruneta (note: the town of Impruneta is world-famous for its terra cotta and might make for a nice side-trip). Stop at a little alimentari (delicatessen) to buy local products (cheeses, breads, salamis, a bottle of wine, etc.) for a picnic later. If you don't find an alimentari, stop in the town of Greve In Chianti, which has a beautiful piazza.
A few kilometers after Greve turn left in the direction of Vignamaggio. This scenic road will lead you to Castello Di Lamole. When we were there we stumbled upon Riccardo Marasco, a famous Italian singer of medieval ballads (www.riccardomarasco.it). What a surprise to find that he owns the entire village!
He and his wife have painstakingly brought it back to its original state and it is now a beautiful agriturismo. You can rent houses in the village, take a dip in the pool (his one concession to modernity), or sit on verandas that offer spectacular views of vineyards and the valley below (www.castellodilamole.it). Marasco's lifelong passion for rediscovering medieval traditions extends to his restaurant, where you can taste food that until recently had disappeared from Tuscan tables.
After leaving Castello di Lamole and continuing onward for a few kilometers the road becomes unpaved and the Strada Bianca begins. Despite being dirt, the roads are well maintained and feature frequent road signs (though having a good map is always a smart idea). Before entering the village of Volpaia you'll find a picnic table set underneath a large tree. It offers a great view of the town's red brick roofs (it's where we ate on our last Strada Bianca picnic).
After lunch visit Volpaia. It's a beautiful well-restored village that dates back to the 12th century. It was recently converted into an azienda agricola (agricultural business). Their local shop offers excellent wines, vinegars, cheeses, honey, and marmalade. If you don't feel for a picnic, stop at Bar Ucci, where Signora Gina will gladly serve you a good assaggi di formaggi (sampling of cheeses) and a glass of the local wine. Simply amazing!
As you leave Volpaia in the direction of Vignavecchia the road is paved once more. Vignavecchia is a another restored village, as is Montevertine, which is easily accessible from Radda in Chianti (which is a beautiful town with many restaurants and shops, though in summer it tends to be jammed with tourists). 10 Km east of Radda is Badia A Coltibuono, one of the most renowned wineries in Chianti.
After visiting Gaiole in Chianti, one of the best-preserved medieval villages in Tuscany, you will pass along some of the most beautiful roads on your journey. Castello Di Brolio, Castello Di Ama, Castello Di Meleto, and Castello Castagnoli are all prestigious local wineries in this area that are open to the public.
Taking the SS484 will bring you to the town of San Gusme. Its beautiful stone walls date back to the 1400s. Your final stop will be in Castelnuovo Berardegna, set at the edge of Chianti's Gallo Nero region. But your journey isn't over. Siena is just 20 km away. Why not take a little stroll in its famed Piazza del Campo before dinner?
If you have more time you could spend few days in Siena and then continue south and explore The Crete Senesi, Montalcino, Pienza — another great trip!!!!
Four Things to Remember When Traveling the Strade Bianche
- Have a good map: Maps marked with the white roads, strade bianche, are available at the Autogrill rest stops on the Autostrada.
- Pack a picnic lunch: Stop at a local alimentari — similar to a deli — to get the freshest local products including meats, wines, cheeses.
- Drive slowly: The roads may be bumpy and narrow, and you could encounter oncoming vehicles, animals or people.
- Let yourself get lost: Follow the map, but then don't stress out if you get a little lost – that's the whole idea!
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