Chef Ming Tsai catches his first trout fly fishing near Manchester Village, Vt.

Ingredients:

4 whole river fish, such as Rainbow Trout, 4 small fins removed from bottom eviscerated, scaled
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 large lemons, cut into thin slices
1/2-lb. pancetta, sliced into thin strips, like bacon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 thick slice ginger

Directions:

1. Using a sharp knife, score the fish on each side.
   
2. Season the inside with salt and pepper, and place 2 or 3 lemon slices inside the cavity of the fish.
   
3. Rub the outside of each fish with the slice of ginger, and season the outside of the fish with salt and pepper.
   
4. Wrap each fish with enough pancetta to cover the flesh, by laying the pancetta side by side in a shingled rectangle, and rolling the fish up in it.
   
5. Prepare an outdoor grill, or preheat the broiler.
   
6. If cooking outdoors, spray the grill with nonstick cooking spray.
   
7. Grill the fillets over high heat, turning once, until the pancetta is crispy, about 4 to 6 minutes each side or until the fish is cooked through.

Copyright, 2000, Ming Tsai, All Rights Reserved