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When the tomatoes from your garden or from the market are spectacular, make a double or triple batch of this sauce and freeze it. Then you can have dinner ready in the time it takes to cook a pot of pasta.

Ingredients:

Makes 2 to 2-1/2 cups, enough for 1-1/2 pounds pasta

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2-cup minced onion
1 Tbs. chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
1 large clove garlic, minced
4 cups fresh tomato puree (see Tomatoes, page 00)
1 large fresh basil stem with leaves removed
1 tsp. sea salt, preferably Gray salt
pinch baking soda or sugar, if needed

Directions:

1. Heat the olive oil in a large non-reactive pot over moderate heat.
   
2. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 8 minutes.
   
3. Add the parsley and garlic and cook briefly to release their fragrance.
   
4. Add the tomatoes, basil and salt.
   
5. Simmer briskly until reduced to a sauce-like consistency, stirring occasionally so nothing sticks to the bottom of the pot.
   
6. The timing will depend on the ripeness and meatiness of your tomatoes and the size of your pot.
   
7. If the sauce thickens too much before the flavors have developed, add a little water and continue cooking.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. If the sauce tastes too acidic, add the baking soda and cook for 5 minutes more. If it needs a touch of sweetness, add the sugar and cook for 5 minutes more. Remove the basil stem before serving.