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Steven Shaw, food critic and author of the forthcoming book "The Menu New York City".


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In his twenties, Steven Shaw was on the fast track to prosperity. He billed 3,000 hours a year as a Manhattan commercial litigator and was destined to become partner at his law firm.

It wasn't uncommon for Shaw to work 80-plus hours a week, pull all-nighters and then nap under his desk when he could. Trial cases kept him on the road for weeks at a time. He hardly ever saw his wife, Ellen. In fact, they scheduled appointments for dates weeks in advance.

Though he always felt a quiet discontent with his career, Shaw regularly dismissed it. But, after his father passed away in 1996, he had a change of heart.

"Death really shakes you up," Shaw explains.

He asked himself some tough questions: "What am I doing with my life?" "Which part of my job do I actually like?"

The answers were sobering. Even the best long-term scenario _ making partner _ meant being married to the firm. He realized that the only positive thing about this path was consistently eating out at fine restaurants. At this point he started to put all the ingredients together to launch a side career as a food critic.

Shaw grew up in a working-class family where his half-Italian, half-Jewish mother embraced both culinary hand-me-downs and also original meals. Although he appreciated home-cooked meals, his family had little extra money so the local steak house was his most elegant dining-out experience.

That all changed after law school. Suddenly big firms with large expense accounts were recruiting Shaw and exposing him to the world of fine dining. He was hooked.

As a working attorney, entertaining clients at business lunches was a key part of his job. On his employer's tab, Shaw sampled about every upscale restaurant in New York City. He often wrote lengthy e-mails to the company detailing the best places to dine. He became the "go-to guy" for restaurant recommendations.

In December 1996 Shaw embraced his inner food critic and outer physique and took on the moniker "Fat Guy." He launched Fat-Guy.com, posting regular reviews and getting a lot of press. Still, that first year, of the more than 100 articles and essays Shaw submitted to papers and magazines, no publishers picked up the reviews.



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For three long years he led a double life, juggling restaurant reviews and the Web site with his harried law practice. Finally, it was too much. He walked away from law and became a full-time critic. Though his buddies cheered him they also intimated that Shaw's decision was a bit out there.

Now, whether he's writing about hot dogs in Connecticut, profiling a chef in Florida or rating the best fish and chips, Shaw works consistently. If he can't pre-sell a pitch, he writes the article anyway and posts it on his site. He actually sells many once-snubbed ideas this way _ a true testament to his sharp, funny writing.

"The ultimate high," says Shaw, is to discover a restaurant, "to be the first person to put the place on the map."

During the next four years, Shaw added many delicious landmarks to his career map. He became a known expert, writing for the biggest and best magazines, including Saveur and Food & Wine, even Elle. He won the prestigious 2002 James Beard Journalism Award for Internet Feature Writing. And Amazon.com and Barnes and Noble.com are currently accepting pre-orders for his forthcoming book, "The Menu New York City."

Still, the life of a freelance writer is challenging. Unlike the consistent stream of bills, paychecks arrive sporadically and take longer to collect. While the average mini-review brings in only $40, a multi-part series can earn him up to $6,000. Often, though, Shaw foots the bill for his research, dining at a restaurant two or three times before writing the review. This can add up to $20,000 worth of restaurant meals each year.

Shaw says that the only downside is the lack of money. "It's the greatest job in the world," he adds. "I get paid to eat and share my opinion with the world."

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