While fantasy theme parks and mega-resorts have gobbled up many square miles of the surrounding countryside, Orlando itself has evolved into a delightful small city offering a good mix of modern infrastructure, vintage architecture, pleasant parks and authentic Southeastern heritage. As a welcome alternative to the contrived pleasures of Downtown Disney, spend a day exploring downtown Orlando for an authentic taste of Central Florida life. Highlights include:

• The Orange County Regional History Center (www.thehistorycenter.org), featuring an engaging mix of permanent and rotating exhibitions focusing on the history of Central Florida.
  
• The Orlando Science Center (www.osc.org), an expansive and multifaceted museum with interactive exhibits that appeal to adults and children.
  
• The Orlando Museum of Art (www.omart.org), exhibiting a strong collection of American art from the 19th century to the present, as well as African art and pre-Columbian art from the Americas.
  
• The Menello Museum of American Folk Art (www.mennellomuseum.org), home to an outstanding permanent collection of works by 20th-century American folk artist Earl Cunningham.
  
• Harry P. Leu Gardens (www.leugardens.org), a marvelous 50-acre botanical garden on the former estate of the late Harry P. Leu, a prominent local businessman whose well-preserved 1880s-era home is open for guided tours.

All of these attractions can be found in a compact area just east of Interstate 4, a short drive from Walt Disney World and the other theme parks. For more information about downtown Orlando, see the "Arts & Culture" listings in the "Things to Do" area of the Orlando/Orange County Convention & Visitors Bureau website, www.orlandoinfo.com.