Getting the Groceries, Paris-Style Shop like a local at open-air street markets selling everything from brie to baquettes
By Laura B. Weiss
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 Seasonal fruits at a Paris market.
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If you want to truly savor French food when you're in Paris, do what many Parisians do: shop or browse at the city's vibrant food markets. These temporary emporiums (marchés volants) set up on rotating days in neighborhoods across the city, so it's easy to find one to fit your schedule.
The markets are a good way to glimpse daily Parisian life. As early as 7 a.m., French housewives are purchasing ingredients for the day's meals. Join them, and meander down rows of stalls with artful displays of seasonal fruits, pungent cheeses and succulent cuts of beef. You can breathe in the aroma of wild strawberries, sample a sweet melon or select picnic provisions.
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 Buyers shop for seafood in the open air.
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Be careful not to select the merchandiseit's traditional for the vendor to pick out the items you want to purchase. The best times to shop are mornings, when the widest selection is available. Flea market vendors, selling everything from toys to jewelry, set up shop, too. By mid-afternoon, the market will close for the day.
That's a good time to head to one of the city's "market streets" (rue commercantes), districts dating to the Middle Ages, where shops selling cheese, pastry and chocolatesand bustling cafesline cobblestone streets. Store hours vary, but most are open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. They're closed on Mondays and Sunday afternoons.
Here's a list of some of the city's best food markets, and the subway (Métro) that will take you there:
President Wilson. This market on the city's Right Bank is a favorite stop for Paris foodies. The food here is high quality and the setting upscale, as it's located in a wealthy residential quarter. Look for "produce of the region" like plump strawberries. Buy a tin of goose pâté for a before-dinner snack. Avoid nearby cafes that can charge as much as $10 for a Coke. Avenue du President Wilson between rue Debrousse and Place d'Iena. Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.; Saturday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Métro: Alma-Marceau, Iena
Richard Lenoir (Bastille). American tourists, North African ex-pats and French housewives mingle among the produce, cheese and flower stalls at this Right Bank market located near the Marais district. Several stands sell Middle-Eastern specialties like tabbouleh and hummus, while others offer black, green and deep purple olives. Boulevard Richard Lenoir between rue Amelot and rue Saint-Sabin. Thursday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Métro: Bastille
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 Paris flea markets have a little bit of everything, from clothes to produce.
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Saxe-Breteuil. At this market on the Left Bank, the nearby Eiffel Tower (an ideal picnic spot) looms over shoppers. Stop by the stalls selling fish, where fresh mussels and tuna glisten. Don't miss the wine merchant who sells some 150-year-old bottles, which shoppers snatch up more for the old glass and labels than the ancient, often undrinkable wine. On the avenue de Saxe. Thursday, 7 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Métro: Segur
Rue Mouffetard. Located on the Left Bank, the narrow rue Mouffetard snakes down a hill and attracts tourists and locals. Stop at La Fontaine aux Vins (107 rue Mouffetard) for wine, Nicolsen Chocolatier (112 rue Mouffetard) for hand-crafted chocolates and to view its unique "Just Married" all-chocolate car and newlyweds, and La Fromagerie Alain Boulay (131 rue Mouffetard) to buy fresh goat cheese.
La Fontaine aux Vins, 107 rue Mouffetard; 01 43 31 41 03; Tuesday - Saturday, 8:00 a.m. 8:30 p.m.; Sunday, 8:00 a.m. 2:00 p.m.
Nicolsen Chocolatier, 112 rue Mouffetard; 01 43 36 78 04; Tuesday - Saturday, 9:00 a.m. - 7:30 p.m.; Sunday 9:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m.
La Fromagerie Alain Boulay, 131 rue Mouffetard; 01 47 07 18 15; Tuesday - Saturday, 7:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m.; 4:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.; Sunday 7:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. Métro: Censier-Daubenton
Rue de Buci/Rue de Seine. For delectable pastries in this Latin Quarter area, head for Gerard Mulot at 76 rue de Seine (www.gerard-mulot.fr) and try the tender tarts or buttery cookies. La Fromagerie 31 (No. 64 rue de Seine) offers a well-edited cheese selection that can be eaten in its small cafe.
Gerard Mulo, 76 rue de Seine; 01 43 26 85 77; Monday - Tuesday, Thursday - Sunday, 6:45 a.m. - 8 p.m.
La Fromagerie, 64 rue de Seine; 01 43 26 50 31; Tuesday Thursday, 10:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; 4:30 p.m. - 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.; Sunday, 10:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Métro: Odeon, Mabillon, St.-Germain des Pres
For a complete list of markets, including days and hours of operation, visit www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Living/markets
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